Fiestas Patrias, Cieneguilla

On Friday evening, we went to the fancy mall here (called Jockey Plaza) because I need to set up cel service and to have dinner. The shops are all the big name, schmancy places...ritzier than American malls by a long shot. Jen pointed out that, though it was packed, no one was carrying bags so not a lot of people buying things at those prices. Before dinner, we came upon a troupe of performers came out with lighted costumes much like Cirque du Soleil.

Saturday was Peruvian independence day and we headed out to the outskirts of Lima, to an area called Cieneguilla that is technically part of Lima but lies over a mountain and in a comparatively picturesque valley. It was nice just to get someplace that could show us a bit of Peru that is more than just Lima. Clearly many Peruvians go out there for the day, and the little river is lined with outdoor restaurants where families have lunch and the kids run around. It was touristy, but Peruvian touristy, a kind of big picnic type of outing...except you don't have to bring the picnic.

We went to a place called Mesas Piedra where all the tables are big slabs of stone. I had pachamanca for the first time, in Quechua: "earth ceramic pot". A ceramic casserole pot is loaded with meat and sundry and spices and backed under hot stones. Mine had chicken, pork and beef in a savory sauce. Also included was an Andean sweet potato, a sweet tamale, a plantain and some giant beans that were not my favorite. Families sit around their lunch, with pitchers of chicha morada (a sweet drink made from purple corn, clove and cinnamon) or frozen lemonade. A Peruvian band was playing and, at one point, traditional dancers. Carter horsed around on a super playground with a multi-tier wooden play structure and we took our soccer ball out to bop around with some of the other families. We did not do a horse ride, but did take a couple of turns on the ATV loop. There was a good, mellow vibe and it's a great way to spend a nice day.



The trip out there and back was less idyllic, but in some ways also good just to see a little bit of reality. The road went through a dusty strip of mechanics and hardware shops, with poorer housing up and down the slopes. The traffic was bad, which meant some of the more aggressive types would zoom down the dirt side roads in front of the businesses.

Peruvian driving philosophy (beta version): No mercy, no hesitation, no resentment.

The dump is along this route, and what appeared to be a slum rising from it called Las Estrellas (The Stars), with many shacks and shipping containers apparently being used as homes. Many of the homes had a big star painted on them. From the main road, people not walking catch mototaxis to get up and down the hills: basically, 3-wheeled moped rickshaws.

Sunday we had a mellow day, sleeping in, exercising, etc. In the late afternoon, we went for tea at Sanjay & Garima's house (Sanjay is the Peru country director). It was Indian tea, so Jen and I said, "Oh, chai!" ...which to an Indian is kind of a gringo thing to say. It turns out that chai just means "tea", and Garima served a couple varieties, one a very nice ginger tea. In addition to other things, there was a small fruit that looked like yellow cherry tomatoes, but tasted like a zingy lemon-raspberry hybrid. I think it was called agua-something...further investigation needed! Carter and their older kids played soccer until they were sweaty and Carter held his own...he may pick up some Peruvian soccer skills when all is said and done.